An incremental schedule of the proposed work needs to be developed that is reasonable, feasible, and factors in weather conflicts. The schedule will be enforced.
- The proposed design needs to include at least two “hop-scotches,” one that is easy, and one that is more challenging.
- The design must account for grout lines that are no less than ½ inch to yield a non-skid surface (See item #1 in Techniques, below.).
Approximatey 1700 sq. ft.
1. All mosaic materials must be flat ceramic. These materials can be broken-up tile, dinnerware, or other ceramic.
2. All mosaic materials must be at least medium-fire ceramic--that is, no low-fire ceramic like some pit-fired ceramic or Mexican low-fired ceramic. These low-fire materials are susceptible to rapid wear and breakage.
3. Thin-set mortar must be a formula that is freeze-thaw resistant. The Orange Show will provide the correct thin-set.
4. Grout will be standard brick mortar, which has larger aggregate than standard grout. As the size of aggregate increases, so does the strength. With foot traffic and/or various loads being wheeled across the sidewalks, strength is vital. The second advantage of using brick mortar is that it will have the texture of a sidewalk--non-skid.
1. The grout lines must be at least ½ inch between pieces of ceramic, to make room for the brick-mortar grout. The proposed design must account for this.
2. The pieces of ceramic should be no larger than the size of the front of a shoe—roughly 3-4 inches, to minimize slipping danger.
3. The concrete must be dampened before installing ceramic pieces. If the artist is working in heat, the thin-set mortar mixture must be on the gooey side rather than the dry side, to prevent drying too quickly.
4. As ceramic is installed it is critical that squeeze-out of the thin-set mortar does not completely cover the bottom of the grout line. This will allow the brick mortar to adhere directly to the substrate.
5. The ceramic pieces must be installed so that no individual piece is either higher or lower than adjacent pieces. This can easily be accomplished by having a flat board that is pressed over a small section while the thin-set is still pliable. A final “hand check” will point to necessary adjustments.
6. At the end of the workday--and if exceptionally hot, during the workday--plastic must be placed over the fresh work so that it doesn’t dry too quickly. The plastic must be fastened to the adjacent grass with long spikes, weights, or other means of preventing wind from removing the plastic. Weather can damage fresh work. If rain pops up during the work session, plastic must be placed over the fresh work immediately.
7. An orange mesh barrier must be placed around the fresh work at the end of the day to prevent traffic from damaging the adhesion process.
8. On the next work day (provided there has been a 24-hour hiatus), the previous day’s work needs to be grouted with the brick mortar, being careful that the grout is either slightly higher than the ceramic, or at the very least exactly even with the top surface of each piece. Ceramic edges are sharp. We will rely on the grout to remedy the potential danger of sharp edges, should someone in bare feet, for instance, happen to be scuffing his feet. Once grouted, the plastic must be re-installed to again slow down the drying process before a new section is begun.
9. If, after grouting, it is discovered that there is a danger of a sharp edge, the sharp edge must be ground down with a carbide rasp, or other method to dull the edge.
10. After the brick-mortar grout is cured, the plastic can be removed to allow for traffic. Checking the manufacturer’s specifications on the bag will guide the length of time needed for functional cure.
11. All materials and tools that belong to the Orange Show must be cleaned at the end of each workday, and replaced. This includes returning the hose-bib tool for water, and securing the warehouse. Any un-used thin-set or brick mortar must be discarded along the fence line across the drive from the warehouse.
12. All expansion joints must be preserved, either through stopping the mosaic at the line, or a better solution would be to add expansion material over existing joints to preserve the continuity of the mosaic surface and not have a tripping hazard.
13. There are a few areas of the flatwork that currently pond after a rain, which poses a slipping hazard. These areas will be marked so that they can be built up. In all cases, the center of the flatwork needs to have a slight crown to prevent ponding.